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Completing a proper break-in on a new band saw blade will dramatically increase its blade life. How To Break in a Blade. Use the appropriate band speed for the material to be cut (see bi-metal speed chart on pages 19 and 20.) 2. Reduce the feed rate/force control on the saw to achieve a cutting rate approximately 20% to 50% of the normal.
Elastix on centos 7 install. Anyone else got one of these?I picked this up one cheap recently and it's mostly all there, except for the right angle vise jaw that attaches to the thread and handle.So I need to fabricate something.Some photo's of the missing parts would be handy.18Yes the rust was free, but for $85 I didn't think it was too bad.Also I remember something about a mod to take backlash out of the gearbox - what was that all about? A spacer on the pinion shaft?Any help appreciated.PS I will probably put on a larger motor as it's only a piddling 1/3 HP.CheersRob. Hi Bob,I am pretty sureyour BS is the model the Chinese copied and H &F sell as the BS4E or B002.The Jaw is 65 H x 55W x 95 L and about 8mm or therebouts in wall thickness. There is slot 43L x 15W on centre in the bottom part of the(55W) jaw. The same Vertical and falat jaws are strengthened by end gussets. Its about an hours work once you get your angle iron to make it from.Your saw rust and all, is about 10 times better than the one received from Hafco this week.
Where yours has knobs mine has hex head bolts. Tell me does yours have a solid sleeve bush bearing in the non driven pulley?.Mine does,it reeks of cheap & nasty.
What other pics or specs are you seeking, drive belt cover may be?Grahame. Mine looks pretty much like that one. I got it about 20 years ago in much this state. Been running ever since. You may well find that the 1/3HP motor is ample.
I have never stalled mine, but when overloaded, the blade comes off. The way to confirm the size is right is feel the temperature while cutting something really big - near the capacity of the saw.By the way, if you take the entire vice off and clamp a workpiece to the bed, you can just fit 190mm wide plate or 175 x about 75 stock!Well done with your purchase!PS: if you still need photos and dimensions of the missing part, PM me. Rob, you will find the current motor is suitable for what it does. Never had a problem with mine.Spend a bit of time setting it up though, and you will find it will cut accurately. I used a builders square to get the blade true.
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Just takes a while.I also flicked the stand. Very poor, and made my own from RHS.Have used it for man years. Lots of work during that time. More than happy.Local engineering works has one near his steel racks.Keep a check on the oil level.Get my blades from McDinen Saws. McDiven Saws P/L specializes in all types of bandsaws (quailty and will make to any size.
Generally much cheaper than your local stores. Will get the size in the morning if you wish.Regards,John. Rob, there is a 4x6 Bandsaw Group on Yahoo with loads of pictures and mods, also if you do an Image search on Google for '4 x 6 bandsaw' you will get a load of images of all aspects of this saw, as well as mods.To answer to your fist question, the bolt going down through the movable jaw screws in to a threaded collar on the threaded rod operated by the handwheel.I have modified both my jaws to be both higher and longer as well as incorporated an adjustment screw in the movable jaw to keep it straight for short pieces.Will take a couple of pics today and put them up later. ROB here is a parts list you may still be able to get the spare part from hare and forbes in melb or syd (thats where i got the spindle shaft)297689. Part number 34if you want to go the diy way get a piece of at least 10mm thick angle iron and cut it down to about 70 mm X 50mm and add some gussets for strenght the slot is probably not neccessary if you dont have those capabilitiessuggest you make it a bit longer and add the jack screw for cutting short pieces as shown in posts previousjohn. Thanks guys, this is all good stuff. Appreciate the effort.I will fabricate something and incorporate those features.I joined the yahoo 6x4 group last night - those groups are really great.I checked the BS over this morning and it is really in excellent condition.
The interface is definitely note the best we've seen, but it provides one-click access to all the options.It takes some time to set up your own reference master and this is done by allowing the program to analyze sets of songs with characteristics similar to what you plan on obtaining. The audio mastering process enables you to prepare a mix for being distributed by fixing distractions in tonality, volume, noises or distortion.Getting accustomed to the application doesn't require you to be a professional mastering engineer, although some basic knowledge and some time is required to find out what each function does.
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The pinion gear (bronze) looks like new, oil OK and right up.The motor sounded a bit suspect in the bearings so I swapped over the 1 HP I have and another pulley and got some heavy water pipe to try it out on.WOW.That about sums it up. Went through that in very little time.Here's some photo's of it now.In the last photo you can see that after the cut the blade moves about 1/8' away from the stock - does this mean I should move the blade in a bit on the adjusters?For $85 I'm over the moon on this one - awesomeness:)CheersRob. In the last photo you can see that after the cut the blade moves about 1/8' away from the stock - does this mean I should move the blade in a bit on the adjusters?Simply out of alignment and needs adjustment. The blade guide bearings on either side of the cutting section are adjustable, up and down and they also twist.
With a small G cramp, I attached a light metal strip to the blade at 90 degrees and with a square on the base plate, adjusted them until the blade was exactly at right angles to the base. It will take a little while, but a must. Also, make sure your blade is in good nick. A crook blade will run off.Regards,John. Good score, use a new blade to set it up, I learnt the hard way when I bought my saw second hand.The old blade in mine cut off to one side no matter what I tried and after fitting the new blade all was fine.DaveThis blade looks pretty crook. Has teeth missing in places.It is cutting on an angle vertically - pulling away from the bed, which sort of suggests the blade. Probably same effect as a chainsaw.I have a local saw works that is good on band saw blade prices.
Might try them, or is Ebay a better bet?Bimetal seems the go, but what teeth count is best for general use? This blade looks pretty fine - the guy only used it to cut brass supposedly.Actually, when I bought the BS I also got a 10 kg length of 65 x 365 mm solid brass round stock for $5.
What would that cost in the shop?This guy also had a Hercus A260 with QCGB and was one of the last ones sold before they stopped production, in really really excellent condition, with a lot of centres etc for $1200 negotiable (sic). Apparently they had about 300 phone calls on it.
Some guy at Meadows bought it. Absolute bargain, but it went off before I spotted the ad on Gumtree.
They got a virtually as new lathe.Getting damn hot in the shed now, so I will pack it in for now. We are in for a 40 + scorcher this week.Time for a beer.Rob. Hi RobI use the hare and forbes starret blades as they are cheap enough at 11 dollars each to have a few different pitches around.It used to be buy 10 and get one free but its been a while since I bought some.Thanks Dave, and welcome back.I braved the heat again and it looks like the tracking is also out - the drive pulley blade is only half on, so I need to read the manual and see what's what.Actually I got it wrong, the blade is pulling in, not out.
But this is all fixable and it's early days.But it certainly works well. When I change the blade I will see if the non driven pulley has a sealed bearing, for Grahame. Bit hard to tell without undoing the bolt.Rob. I just had a look and those Starrett blades are cheap enough.
I recon I paid $25 for my wood bandsaw blade locally at the saw works, so that is a good price.We don't have H&F in SA, we have General Tools which is an affiliate, and they generally charge a bit more.I will ring and see what they have going.RobYes they are cheap but I prefer to use the bimetal blades. I pay about $30 each for those but they last much, much longer and they cut a whole quicker. Can't remember the last time I replaced the blade on my 4 x 6 and I cut a lot of 304 SS bar up to 1'.4x6 Bandsaw Mods (http://www.mini-lathe.com/Bandsaw/Bandsaw.htm#bimetal). Yes they are cheap but I prefer to use the bimetal blades. I pay about $30 each for those but they last much, much longer and they cut a whole quicker.
Can't remember the last time I replaced the blade on my 4 x 6 and I cut a lot of 304 SS bar up to 1'.4x6 Bandsaw Mods (just rang General Tools and they have bimetal for $32, so I will go with that provided the length is right (1645 mm) - will check that in the morning when it's a bit cooler.What speed (pulley set) do you run the bimetal at for carbon steel?Rob. Id say a bit more than ' a bit on the top' quote fore my spindle for bandsaw was 50 dollars moresame part number go figurejohnA year ago I bought a Table Saw from General Tools for the same price as H&F plus freight cos it had to be shipped from Sydney. He said they charge freight on large stuff. I also bought a 150mm milling vice identical to Vertex with an angle base for cheaper than H&F had at the time. He also opened up on Saturday morning when they did not normally open, to load the saw and because it was threatening to rain covered both the saw and the mill I had got from Paramount Browns just before with plastic sheet and heaps of tape. (Michael saw it all wrapped up!) Go figure.At the time I believe they charged the same price for stock items but added freight for items ordered specially. Same as most places I would think.
I don't know if this has changed since.Dean. At least its not like Simons saw where he had major troubles.DaveI can't remember that post, have you got a link to it?I gave up working in the shed today when it got to 41C at lunch time, damn hot here.I've machined a bronze bush to fit the pulley centre (Dufor spring shackle bush).This has a much larger centre diameter than the original. I will then make up a sort of very thick Speedie seal to press onto the worn shaft. This will give it a larger rubbing /load bearing area.Bronze is damn hard stuff, so this saw has done some serious work at some time. The pinion gear in the GB looks like new, so maybe that's been replaced.I pondered over fitting ball races but went this way for now to avoid issues and get the job done.The pulleys on these saws only turn relatively slowly, so the lube should last a long time.That's about it for now.CheersRob.
The spacer behind the wheel is very basic i must sayjohnBASIC, that's the understatement of the year - it's just a small loose collar cut out of some thin walled tubing. LOL.I'm going to ditch that, and machine a flange on the inner end of the Speedie seal, and that will rub against a similar flange machined onto the Dufor bush in the pulley. This should be a way better arrangement.Thanks for all the tips and links guys, I will go through them all.I see on the JET model much like mine, they have an adjustable support bracket from the back of motor mount plate down to the rear of the swing arm section.Anyone got that on theirs??CheersRob. I don't know if this is the case for all these BS clones, but here goes.One problem with these BS is that there's no way to lubricate the bush/ spindle combination in situ.That's probably why mine wore out so badly. Made up a sleeve to go over the damaged shaft.Did away with the poxy spacer by extending the sleeve and bronze bush - this gives rear face support to the pulley.Tack bronzed the sleeve onto the original shaft at one end.
Quench hardened the sleeve.All fitted and works great with absolutely no pulley weave or runnout.May add a greaser later.Here's some photos that give an idea of how I did it.The wall thickness of the bronze bush can be seen in the last photo.Fitted the new blade and cuts great. Have yet to fine tune the adjustment.Two of the blade rollers are heavily grooved so may swap them over as well.With the 1 HP motor it cuts effortlessly.Rob. After fixing the bearing and shaft I still had about 1/8' vertical runout on the cut, and with a square on the cutting plate you could see the blade move out at the top of the arm movment.There is no adjustment on the swing arm, and I thought, I wonder if the base is twisting on the floor surface.So I put a steel plate under a leg to induce twist and watched the blade travel v the square.That was the problem.Moved the saw to a flat area of floor and it's within 1 mm through the cut arc.The stand is pretty crummy as provided.
If you were to make a solid stand and use pull down bolts to mount the saw (instead of the side mount arrangement), you could effectively use shims to induce sufficient twist to get perfect swing arm travel.Interesting stuff.Rob. Thanks for all the feedback guys.The picture I really wanted is how the threaded shaft attaches to the movable vise jaw, under the bed.Does it screw into a pivot of some sort to allow the vise to turn?Regarding the motor, I may try it first as is. I have a 1 HP motor under the bench doing nothing.I will see how that pulley is mounted Grahame.PS What speed do you run these at with a coarse and fine blade?CheersRobAccording to the Grizzly manual for the GO622 4 x 6 metal cutting band sawThe FPM figures arefor:Tool steel,stainless and bearing bronze - 24 TPI at 78 FPMMild steel,hard brass and bronze - 18 TPI at 108 FPMSoft Brass, Aluminium and other light metals 14 TPI at 180 FPMIt seems as though its hard to obtain a Taiwanese 4 x 6 horizontal bandsaw (Prefereably Rong Fu ) Band Saw at the moment.My Google searches are not showing any.
I bought my saw through a dealer specifically because he carried Taiwanese 4 x 6 bandsaws.When I ordered he said he would get one through another dealer as he did not have a bandsaw in stock. Little did I know that the dealer was to be H & F.The saw I received is a H7F BOO2 BS4A the cheap and nasty clone. If you compare the two there's small differences such as hex head bolts substituted for threaded knobs.The grizzly manual shows a 3/4 horse motor and a idler wheel with two 6202zz bearings against a bushed wheel ( no oil ways) for the BOO2 model.The grizzly model shows a lock pin to lock the arm to the body, something you may have found handy, Rob.I had a look at the possibility of boring out the wheel for a 6202 bearing but the wheel hub averages 38mm diameter while the bearing OD is 35mm- not enough metal there.I am considering either making a steel wheel or buying one ex Grizzly.Grahame. I had a good play with the two roller guides today and particularly the blade vertical alignment.I got that pretty right and it's now cutting with very little run out.I probably stuffed up with the bed twist factor. I couldn't repeat it today, so it must have been my error - got a bit carried away on that one.I've taken those poxy wheels off, and I have a set of good quality, larger, ball bearing metal/rubber wheels on a track about twice as wide - so I'm installing them for now.With the standard wheels, it tries to tip over every time you move it.
Hopeless set up. Probably why you see so many with the belt drive cover broken or gone awol.This will be way better.Grahame it sounds like the Rong Fu (that name breaks me up) is a highly desirable piece of equipment:) Could have fooled me.I used it to cut some steel for the wheels, and it was Soooooooo easy and fast.Grahame if yours is going Ok, I'd just use it until it craps out and fix it then. It could go OK for decades.Too many jobs and not enough time.Rob. Hi Rob.Have you had a look thru this thread Lots of pictures in there and some good ideas.I made up 2 jaws from 75mm angle for my saw and they have been working fine. Both are clamping jaws, one extends right up to the blade and the other one has a bit more clearance for general use. I did not add any bracing.
I have also made it possible to move the fixed jaw back a bit to allow bigger material to fit in. I think I can get 180mm stock into the saw.Dean. Hi all,I hope you all have a happy new year.Well the Rong Fu is now fully operational. I had to do a bit to get it up to scratch for my $85 outlay:- sleeve the worn spindle and and rebush the pulley for the idler pulley,- make up the movable vise nut (this has a 5/8' LH Acme thread).
You shouldn't have painted the jaws Rob. No good.:no: Now you will have to do the rest to match!:CMy saw does not have a fixed jaw angle stop on it. I have been meaning to do something because I rarely move it from 90 deg. I think I will copy yours.DeanHi Dean,I saw another design which uses a single bolt with a large square head.The bolt screws into the BS bed (probably has a lock nut underneath) about where my little block is, and a horizontal thread goes through the large square head in the same way as mine.This means you only have to drill one hole, and can screw the block thread up or down to align the cross thread level - I hope that all makes sense.Looked like a good simple design to me.Rob. Hi Dean,I saw another design which uses a single bolt with a large square head.The bolt screws into the BS bed (probably has a lock nut underneath) about where my little block is, and a horizontal thread goes through the large square head in the same way as mine.This means you only have to drill one hole, and can screw the block thread up or down to align the cross thread level - I hope that all makes sense.Looked like a good simple design to me.RobPerfectly clear Rob. Undecided at the moment.
I usually have a better idea of how I want to do something with some visual clues. Put some bits of metal in position. SWMBO despairs of my inability to visualise something she had described. Usually to do with the house, furniture, curtains etc.Dean. Perfectly clear Rob. Undecided at the moment.
I usually have a better idea of how I want to do something with some visual clues. Put some bits of metal in position. SWMBO despairs of my inability to visualise something she had described. Usually to do with the house, furniture, curtains etc.DeanI know what you mean.I thought afterwards you could just use some 15 mm round stock, machine it down to cut the thread, cut off the stock leaving about 20 mm unworked, mill a flat each side of that section, then drill and tap the cross thread through the flats.You can see on the one I made that I had to put a spacer plate under the block to get the right height - my square section wasn't quite big enough.It's a great mod. You won't get stressed anytime soon about moving the primary vise jaw.CheersRob.
I know what you mean.I thought afterwards you could just use some 15 mm round stock, machine it down to cut the thread, cut off the stock leaving about 20 mm unworked, mill a flat each side of that section, then drill and tap the cross thread through the flats.You can see on the one I made that I had to put a spacer plate under the block to get the right height - my square section wasn't quite big enough.It's a great mod. You won't get stressed anytime soon about moving the primary vise jaw.CheersRobIt depends on the timing of when I do it. I am currently without an operating lathe.:C:oI could strip the saw down to the base and mill a flat section. I can find some square of sufficient cross section. That was my initial thought when I saw your picture. It was a fleeting thought tho, I must say.:rolleyes:Dean.
York, Pennsylvania, United States
US $225.00
For sale Used Rong Fu band saw Model RF-1151/2 HP, single phase Condition: | Used: An item that has been used previously. The item may have some signs of cosmetic wear, but is fully operational and functions as intended. This item may be a floor model or store return that has been used. See the sellerТs listing for full details and description of any imperfections. .. | Brand | Rong Fu |
Model | RF-115 |
6' Drill Press Slot Vise Lock Hold Down Locking Clamp. VERY GOOD CONDITION,FULLY FUNCTIONAL TOOL.
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